Pre-owned Alexander McQueen

Start with the tailored jacket, because it shows what the house does best. Alexander McQueen was founded in London by Lee Alexander McQueen, and the jackets Kove holds carry that city’s cut. The shoulder is built sharp and the waist is held close, so the shape is there before you move. On a pre-owned jacket the shoulders are the first thing to check. They should sit flat with no ripple where the sleeve joins, and the hem should fall straight once you button it. Then open it up. Look at the lining for thinning at the underarm, and make sure the composition tag is still readable, because that tag tells you what the cloth is made of. You wear one of these over something plain. A white shirt and dark trousers keep the attention on the cut, which is the reason you bought it.

Shoes are the easiest way into the house, and the sneakers and boots Kove holds go with plain trousers. On a used pair, press the sole to see that it is still firm, check the toe for any separation, and run a finger round the heel counter for loose threads. Bags are the leather pieces where the metal work shows first. Look at the skulls, zips and studs for scratches and dulled plating, make sure every clasp still closes cleanly, and compare the corner wear with the rest of the leather so the wear matches all round.

Accessories carry the house’s motifs without the full outfit. Look for the skull on scarves, belts and jewellery, and check the plating on the metal and the seams on the leather exactly as you would on a bag. On every Kove page the condition is described piece by piece, marks of use included, and the published price is the final one.