Pre-owned Balenciaga

You can place almost any Balenciaga piece by the hand that shaped it. Cristóbal Balenciaga founded the house and gave his name to a way of cutting cloth that stands away from the body. Pieces from his own workroom rarely reach a used catalogue, so start with the directors who came after him.

Nicolas Ghesquière gave the house the City bag. Its lambskin is thin and soft, it slouches and creases with carrying, and the brass studs and buckles take on a darker tone with handling. Soft studded leather with a tassel and a mirror hanging from the strap is the look of that era, but the house has since revisited the shape, so read the label and the hardware rather than the silhouette before you decide which version you have.

Alexander Wang kept the house in a leaner and sharper register, and his pieces are easy to confuse with the years around them. Again, read the label and the hardware first, then check them against the written condition.

Demna’s years gave the house the pieces you are most likely to recognise on the street. The Triple S, the Speed trainer, the oversized tailoring, the outerwear that hangs off the body and the logo caps all come from his years at the house. On the sneakers the tread wear should match the written condition. On the tailoring, look at the seams and the drape rather than the tag.

Whatever the era, look at the same points. Hardware for scratches, dents and colour change. Stitching at handle bases and strap anchors, where loose or doubled thread shows first. Lining for marks, pen ink and wear at the pocket edges. Soles and corners for how the piece was set down over time. Condition is described piece by piece, and where a laboratory document exists the page says so.

At Kove, Balenciaga runs across Shoes, Bags, Clothing, Accessories and Hats. Start with the Shoes for heavy runners and boots you wear with everything else kept plain. Go to the Bags for soft studded leather. The Clothing hangs off the body. The Accessories bring the house’s hardware down to pocket scale, and the Hats finish a look on their own. Each piece at Kove carries its final published price.